Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Brunn Grüner Veltliner 2011 & The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou


"No, Captain! That's Cedric. He's a friend." 
"Merci, Cedric. Remind me, we'll send him a Red Cap and a [bottle of Brunn Grüner Veltliner 2011.]" 

As I wrote in my last post, I picked this bottle up on a whim from my favorite coffee/wine shop, mostly because I liked its soda pop-style-red and white cap. The bottle is a promising bright green and the label is simple and ambiguous; there is no description of the wine shown. I was intrigued by this small mystery and then delighted when I got home, did a little digging and discovered that the winery is in the Kamptal, an Austrian wine region, along the Danube! After living a few tram stops from the river in Budapest for a semester, I am an enthusiastic fan of all things Eastern European. I was understandably excited to have a night off to taste this family-grown wine and I was not disappointed.


First Sip Thoughts: Hot DAMN, that is delicious.
Seriously though, this may be my favorite white wine that I’ve ever tasted. Until this summer I was a red wine drinker, through and through. Then, the hot weather this year inspired me to drink about 20 gallons of Pinot Grigio a week (most notably anything with notes of green pepper). Although I’ve come to love white wines, I always fall back on something warm and red and dry as a rule. Brunn might have just changed my go-to, the same way that my go-to movies became Wes Anderson movies the first time that I thoroughly watched The Darjeeling Limited (Anderson 2007). It’s full without being too heavy, well balanced, but it has a kick. A slight tartness that makes your tongue tingle and your very back teeth ache for a second. I finally understand what they mean when they say that a wine has “mineral” flavors. It’s hard to explain, but I feel like I can, less taste, and more sense the earth that these grapes were grown in, stoney and a little metallic.

In case you haven’t seen it, (seriously though, see it.)  The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou, tells the story of Steve Zissou (Bill Murray) beginning at the lowest point in the arc of his oceanographer/explorer celebrity. The focal relationships in the film are those between Steve and his possible son, Ned/Kingsley (Owen Wilson), his estranged wife (Anjelica Huston), his best friend and “B Squad Leader” Klaus (Willem Dafoe) and the journalist writing a story on his latest film (Cate Blanchett). The picture is a study of one man’s creative angst, egotism and eventual redemption.

Sweet but not too sweet, just like life, that’s how this wine and this movie are. Like all of Anderson’s movies, Life Aquatic features a vivid, beautiful aesthetic and romanticized premise undercut with familial tension, death and ugliness. It’s like… you’re going to have fun and you’re going to laugh… but you might also cry. In fact, my only possible criticism of this wine is that it might not have the complexity to match the corresponding film. The advertised citrus notes are evident but the taste, while it intensifies, does not reveal as much as I would like upon the second and third glass. The bonuses are that this bottle will make you feel as great and adventurous as the film and that it comes with its own, red, little Team Zissou cap. 


To me, these two are a great match. Take them or leave them, but if you don’t like them, “get your ass the hell off of my boat.”

Pairing Notes: Drink a glass of Brunn Grüner Veltliner (garnished with a Crayon Pony Fish) and watch The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou with a friend who feels like family.

Note: This isn’t a technical study or an in depth analysis of this film. There are plenty of those, already. This is really just me editorializing on the relationship that I found between this wine and this movie, because I think that that’s more interesting. This will probably apply to most future posts, unless the movie is really not well liked or known.

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